By Dwight Casimere
Fossacesia, Italy, Chieti Province-The smell of wild jasmine is everywhere as the sun dances on waves at eventide like dabs from a pointillist’s paintbrush. This is the scene in early summer in Abruzzo, a breathtaking region of Italy that is the home of the some of that country’s most refreshing and approachable wines.
Located just under a hundred miles from Rome, and sharing the same latitude, the two locales are worlds apart. Hills doted with sun-drenched villas cascade to the Adriatic Sea and its white sand beaches. It is a romantic paradise, rivaling St. Tropez.
Most wine lovers familiar with the wines of Abruzzo are familiar with its famed Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, a versatile wine that gives pleasure in any number of guises. Vinified and aged in stainless steel, it can be a simple, unassuming wine gushing with the attractiveness and transparent taste of fresh red fruit. Aged in oak casks or smaller, new barriques, it can reveal complex layers of concentrated flavor that can rival the best vintages of Burgundy or Napa Valley. A deep dive into Abruzzo’s many indigenous grape varieties and the skillful use of biodynamic, organic and sustainable winemaking techniques, combined with varied soil types and micro-climates producing wines of uncanny distinction. To taste the wines of Abruzzo is to taste the sun and soil with a gentle kiss from the sea.
Cooperatives are the dominant force in Abruzzo. Coops make more than 80% of the wine that comes from Abruzzo. Chieti, where I stayed at the outset of my journey to Abruzzo, under the auspices of I.E.E.M. (International Event and Exhibition Management, the Miami based agency specializing in marketing, organizing and managing events, exhibitions and PR for the wine industry.
Our base of operations was the gleaming Supporter Deluxe Hotel in Fossacesia on the Trabocchi Coast of Abruzzo. Its massive veranda and rooftop bar with its gleaming free-form white sculptures, melded the white sand beaches and azure sea below with the limestone and clay terraced hillsides that mimic the landscape of the surrounding vineyard territory.
Designed by Studio Di Progettazione architect Vincenzo Di Pasquale of Lanciano, Supporter is “a dream come true,” according to its owner.
Following a visit to the Abbey of San Giovanni in Venere, it was off to Cantina Frentana.
Last year, the family of Cantina Frentana merged with Cantina Sangro di Fossacesia after a lengthy collaboration. According to President Carlo Romanelli and Sales Director Felice Di Biase, who led our tour of the winery, this union has made Cantina Frentana the largest wine cooperative in Abruzzo.
Founded in 1960, the cooperative has 500 members. Situated in the foothills of Rocca San Giovanni, the winery is a case study in winemaking of the Abruzzo region. Limestone and chalk soils in Abruzzo’s Majella Hills combine with the gentle breeze of the Adriatic Sea to make this an ideal place to grow vines.
Frentana has vineyards scattered throughout the Chieti region. Each one has a unique microclimate and soil characteristic, giving their wines great variety and depth.
Respect for the land and its history is an integral part of Cantina Frentana’s philosophy. In synergy with other producers in the area and local government officials, the winery has created the Frentana Bike Project which offers tourists and local visitors who cycling enthusiasts a strategic and scenic route through the breathtaking Costa del Trabocchi. Anyone who has visited Italy knows that cycling is a hugely popular activity. One can see teams of cyclists traveling through its hills and valleys on a regular basis.
Also, in a nod to region’s history, Cantina Frentana is celebrating its 60th anniversary with the presentation of several precious coins from the Italic era, which were unearthed from local archeological sites.
A huge tower dominates the winery campus, one of only ten built in the entire region, and one of only three left standing. Most were abandoned. The tower rises about ten stories above the vineyards. A tasting room on the top floor offers a commanding view of the vineyards and the seascape beyond. To say a visit to Frentana is an elevating experience is an understatement!
The outer walls of the Jules Vern-like futuristic structure are made up of cement tanks where the wine was fermented and aged, using a system powered by gravity. Now, steel tanks have largely taken over, with cement tanks still being used for a handful of wines. A secondary winery has been constructed for the production of organic wines dedicated to the expression of local grape varieties.
Cantina Frentana is currently presenting its new line of wines that celebrate the 60th anniversary of the opening of the first factory at the winery in 1961. Among the outstanding wines tasted were their flagship wines, Cantina Frentana Abruzzo Cococciola, a popular local variety (which we jokingly called Coca Cola) and another local favorite, Abruzzo Pecorino. Paired with a light lunch of local cheeses and salamis, this was a perfect way to spend an afternoon while enjoying the stunning view from the tower.
The winery is also well known for its 100% Trebbiano, another local grape which could be seen growing in the vineyards just beneath the tower.
Trebbiano is fermented in stainless steel tanks in order to preserve its natural fruit flavors. Straw-colored with flavors of crisp Delicious Apples and pears, the wine is great just by itself or with a pasta salad topped with local peppers, olives and a bit of mozzarella cheese. Local seafood of just about any kind is also a natural. Grilled octopus is a particular favorite of the locals in Chieti.
The afternoon was topped off with a tasting of 60th Anniversary Riserva Montepulciano D’Abruzzo. Created to coincide with the ongoing celebration of the winery’s history, it is packed with luscious dark fruit. Hints of turned earth and valley floor mushroom are encased in this well-structured wine. This is the perfect wine to have with a grilled steak or lamb or with a really funky cheese that you’re been hiding just for yourself.
Behind-the-scenes operations at Cantina Frentana combine tried-and-true ancient techniques with modern, earth-friendly technology. according to Sales Manager Felice di Biase.
Cantina Frentana has also made a significant turn toward the future, through the use of green technology. The vineyards are all farmed organically. Recent experiments have also created vines that are resistant to disease, Oenologist Gianni Pasquale confirmed. No herbicides or chemical additives of any kind are used in the growing of the grapes or in the making of the wine.
Cantina Frentana is the first winery cooperative in Abruzzo to obtain green certification for its use of clean energy. Its production facilities at Rocca San Govanni and Fossacesia use energy produced 100% from renewable sources.
Cantina Frentana’s reputation for purity and quality is unparalleled in Abruzzo’s majestic Majella Hills. Their wines are shining examples of the delicious and approachable wines of Abruzzo.