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Wine of the Week: Fine wines from historic vineyards take center stage at 2023’s Top Wine Auction in Chicago

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Broadbent Selections was among the 15 tables of fine wines presented at the Featured Vineyard Tasting Reception of Lyric Opera of Chicago’s Wine Auction 2023. The Wine Auction has raised over $11 million dollars in support of the opera since 1988.

Named a “Top Charity Wine Event” by Wine Spectator, the auction is presented every three years by the Women’s Board. More than 400 wine enthusiasts from around the country came to Chicago to appreciate an incredible selection of fine wines and enjoy gourmet cuisine in the stunning confines of the Lyric Opera House. Proceeds from the auction support live performances of grand opera.

While the Auction is held on the Ardis Krainik Stage of Lyric Opera, The Featured Vintner Tasting Reception is held in the opulent Daniel F. and Ada L. Rice Grand Foyer of the Lyric Opera House as a prelude. The exceptional stature of the wines presented at the tasting is reflected in the regal art deco surroundings.

It was a distinct pleasure to become reacquainted with winemaker Bartholomew Broadbent of Broadbent Selections, whom I’d met at the Aspen Wine Classic some 20 years ago. I had interviewed his father, Michael Broadbent in London in 1984.

 As head of Christie’s wine department, the elder Broadbent literally created the concept of the modern wine auction and was the long-time auctioneer at the famed Napa Valley Wine Auction.

Known as an importer and expert on Fine Ports and Madeiras, Bartholomew Broadbent has turned his attention to his new line of fine wines.

 His Broadbent Selections, established in San Francisco in 1996, is heralded as one of the top importers of fine wines from around the world. His new focus on wines from Northern California was one of the highlights of the Lyric’s wine event.

In 2020, Wine and Spirits nominated Broadbent Winery as one of the Top 100 Wineries.

Architect Cabernet 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon ($25), a blend of 80% Cabernet, 7% Petite Verdot, 5% Cabernet France, 5% Merlot, and 5% Malbec, is a lush medley of

ripe, dark fruit and heady aromas of black cherries, along with ripe plums with a hint of vanilla, baking spices and cocoa.

“The wines are all new, and from two properties in Alexander Valley, a region with rich, volcanic soils and ideal wine growing conditions that’s really just starting to come into its own.

“The vines are between 10 and 15 years old,” Bartholomew explained. “They are cold soaked for 4 days, before fermentation with cultured yeasts in stainless steel.”

The wine is then transferred to 60-gallon oak barrels (75% French, 25% Radoux American) for 12 months of barrel aging.

“My father designed the label,” Bartholomew proudly explained, pointing to the gold-embossed label.

Before becoming famous as a wine expert and author, his father, Michael Broadbent was trained as an architect. This background gave him a unique appreciation for structure and balance, which proved beneficial in his becoming the world’s 24th Master of Wine.

After literally ‘growing up’ in the wine industry, his son, Bartholomew, or Bollew as he known to his friends and associates, is renowned as one of the “fifty most influential people in the wine world,” according to Decanter, and is ranked 48th among the “Top 100 Most Influential People in the U.S. Wine Industry” by InfoWine.com.

There were more old friends and familiar faces to meet at the reception. It was also a distinct pleasure to run into Sean Barrett, National Sales Ambassador to Napa Valley’s Grgich Hills Estate Winery, a frequent stop on my many visits to Napa Valley over my thirty-plus-year career as a wine writer and enthusiast.

 Founded by Vintners Hall of Fame inductee Miljenko “Mike” Grgich nearly 50 years ago, Grgich Hills winery’s signature Cabernet, Chardonnay, and landmark Fume Blanc, are the flagship wines of California’s famed Napa Valley.

By the way, there are no ‘Grgich Hills’. The name is derived from the winery’s other founding partner, Austin Hills, who is a member of the famed Hills Bros. Coffee Company family of San Francisco. After Mike Grgich won the Judgement of Paris of 1976, Hills approached him with the idea of joining forces to produce world-class wines. Thus, Grgich Hills was born 46 years ago.

“I’ve been the Sales Ambassador for the past 30 years,” Sean Barrett proudly explained. “It’s been a terrific opportunity to celebrate the wines of one of the legendary figures of Napa Valley.”

Grgich Hills is celebrating Mike Grgich’s 100th birthday at its annual Wine Club Croatian Extravaganza on July 1, 2023. At the Lyric Wine Auction Tasting Reception, Sean was pouring Grgich Hills 100, a special wine created to commemorate the occasion.

It was also a pleasure to meet Luca Paschina, General Manager and Winemaker of Barboursville Vineyards of Virginia, a flagship winery of Broadbent Selections.

The sole American endeavor of the famed Italian winemaking family Zonin of Gambellara, Italy, Barboursville is Virginia’s first wine estate dedicated to growing European wine varietals.

Barboursville is a magnificent and historic Virginia estate, located between Monticello and Montepelier. Founded in 1976, it is the producer of Octagon, the most renowned red wine of Virginia.

A third-generation winemaker from Piedmont, Italy, Luca studied winemaking at the Enology Institute in Alba, one of the ‘biggest small towns’ in Italy, known as the headquarters to the world food crazes Nutella and Ferrero Rocher chocolates, both made from the native Hazelnut.

Alba is also celebrated for its Barbaresco and Barolo wines and as home to the month-long gastronomic event, the Alba White Truffle Fair held each year from October to November.

“We have more than 900 acres on what was an old plantation,” Luca explained. “More than 160 acres are under vine.” The wine has won accolades for its newly released 2019 Vermentino. Native to the maritime growing regions of Liguria, Corsica, and Sardinia in Italy, the wine has translated easily to American soil. “It’s shown a surprising ability to adapt to our warm climate in Virginia. If you like seafood, this is the wine to have,” Luca explained.

Beth Novak Milliken, President and CEO of Spotswoode Estate in St. Helena, Napa Valley, was the first winemaker to greet me as I entered the Grand Foyer. I had met her several years ago at the Napa Valley Wine Auction. It was probable the last year that Michael Broadbent Presided there as Auctioneer. Her Spotswoode Family Estate 2019 Cabernet ($279.95) is epic. Rated 100 points, it is one of Napa Valley’s “First Growth’ Wines and Vineyards, “according to Robert Parker.

The winery is one of the pioneer organic farms in Napa Valley and is established as a world-class vineyard.

Paula Kornell was another old friend from my days as a California wine writer, who was on hand to pour her signature Domaine Carneros Sparkling Wine.

Paula Kornell Sparkling Wine is the Namesake Brand of one of the Napa Valley’s leading Women in Wine. She was pouring the Inaugural Release of her California Brut Methode Champenoise, a stunning and elegant wine that has already garnered praise. Ranked 5th in Wine Enthusiast’s Top 100 Wine of the Year, the wine is Editor’s Choice and ranked 94 points by Wine Enthusiast.

I would be remiss if I did not also mention Andy Peay of Peay Estate Wines from the West Sonoma Coast, whose table also poured Chateau Palmer wine of Margaux, France ($363). I had another opportunity to taste this incredible wine at the annual Bordeaux tastings at Chicago’s Drake Hotel and Cipriani near Grand Central Station in New York this past November. Every opportunity to taste this incredible wine in such a grand setting is a special occasion.

Chicago, with its remarkable restaurants, and leading hotels of the world, is an epicenter to the hospitality industry. The fine wines presented at the wine tasting reception, celebrity chef and winemaker dinners and the wine auction itself, are an indication of the preeminence of the city in the Wide World of Wine.

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