One of the real standouts from the recent Unions des Grands Crus de Bordeaux USA Tour 2023 was the newly released 2020 Chateau Cantenac Brown ($55), a Margaux that really shines.

A classy Bordeaux blend, it begins with aromas of wildflowers and violets with spicy oak that opens up to punchy red berries and hints of shaved cinnamon, mint and rose petals. The intense fruit is nicely balanced with energetic tannins and vibrant acidity.

This is a beautiful wine. It is also one of the few top-tiered Chateau Margaux that you can buy for a two-digit price.

There is an excellent interplay between blackberry, raspberry and spice and the hint of mineral notes and velvety undertones. Great mid-palate depth gives way to a fantastic finish. It is virtually a symphony of flavors.

Cantenac Brown for 2020 has all the added qualities that give Margaux wines that special edge. Added layers of caramel and chocolate and hints of dried autumn fruit make it a perfect companion to an elegant dinner.

Chateau Cantenac began its life as the passion of the well-known Scottish animal painter, John Lewis Brown, who acquired the estate in the early 19th century and built a Tudor style chateau reminiscent of those of his native Scotland. The estate remains among the most unusual in the region as it is surrounded entirely by grounds consisting of opulent English Gardens.

The property has changed hands several times over the years, most notably Remy Martin AXA-the owners of Chateau Pichon Baron and the Halabi family. As of 2019, the new owner is the Le Lous family.

 Proprietor Tristan le Lous proudly of the famed estate. “We have always had great ambitions for Chateau Cantenac. We wanted to build on the improvements in quality conducted by (winemaker) Jose Sanfins over the past decade.

“We thought that Cantenac Brown deserved more in terms of investment,” he continued. “We have already built a new winery and a new cellar. We also are raising the profile of Chateau Cantenac in terms of awareness and recognition by wine lovers.”

Chateau Cantenac’s new building has an earthen wine cellar located directly below the estate. “The purpose of the cellar,” Le Lous noted, “is to further connect Chateau Cantenac Brown to the land and to create a one-of-a-kind cellar that produces wines of the highest quality.”

Designed by pioneering architect Philippe Madec, the cellar is a masterpiece of eco-construction. “His design created a gravity flow winery that preserved the essence of the grapes throughout the winemaking process. It guarantees thermal inertia with perfect humidity, thanks to these walls,” Le Lous elaborated.

The recent pandemic and its enforced isolation turned out to be of great benefit to the new owner. It allowed him to focus entirely on realizing his vision for his new acquisition.

“I was fortunate enough to be able to spend my entire lockdown in the most gorgeous castle of the region,” he exclaimed.

One of the visions that Le Lous had was to create a winery that functions totally in harmony with the land.

“We have a lot of challenges here,” he said. “The terroir is a mix of gravel, limestone and sand. In spite of our limitations, we were able to create a winery that honors the land by practicing sustainable viticulture.”

To that end, the winery is designed to create its own self-sustaining universe. “We have a valuable ecosystem here,” Le Lous said further. “Rare Sequoias and Spanish Fir trees surround the property. The estate produces its own honey, as part of our biodiversity campaign. We have also introduced “insect hotels” and wildflower hedgerows that further nourish the environment.”

All of this combines to create new wines of exceptional quality. Winemaker Jose Sanfins extolled the virtues of the newly released 2020 vintage. “The Cabernet Sauvignon was rich with a lot of tension and at the same time, delicacy. Merlot was fantastic too. It was a bit more tannic than usual,” he continued.

“The blend matches perfectly with about 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40$ Merlot. Cantenac Brown 2020 has a lot of class.”

 The changing of the guard has not diminished the quality of this outstanding wine.

Located in the commune of Cantenac in Bordeaux, the vineyards consist of terraced layers of gravel, marl, limestone, and sand.

Called “Medoc diamonds'” the rich soil contain beautiful quartz that give off sparks of light that reflect the sun’s rays onto the grapes by day. The stones then store heat that is released to caress the grapes with warmth in the cool breezes of night. 

Grapes from each of the distinct terrors are then blended to perfection. Cabernet Sauvignon grapes give the wine its intense bouquet. Merlot provides richness, smoothness, and color.

Fermented in stainless steel at very low temperatures to preserve the fruit flavors, the wine is then aged in 60% new oak to add further complexity.

Chateau Cantenac Brown is best served with any type of classic meat dishrack of Lamb, Veal Marsala, Beef Bourguignon, Coq au Vin, or Duck a l’orange.

Silky, spellbinding, and refined are just a few of the superlatives that describe this exquisite Chateau Margaux.

 I can’t say enough about this wine. Better than taking my word for it, grab a bottle at your local wine shop and try it for yourself.  As always drink responsibly.