By Dwight Casimere
History tell us that wine making arrived in Southern France around the 4th century BC when the Greeks set foot on its fertile soil. It was the Romans who later established permanent vineyards and cemented the reputation of the region as they carved a highway through the French countryside, planting vineyards along the way.
A sort of celebrity came the Rhone’s way in 1309, when Pope Clement V moved his headquarters from Rome to Avignon. This gave birth to the famed wines of the Chateauneuf-du-Pape (the Pope’s new ‘crib’ (home).
Almost as legendary as the inhabitants of the Cotes Du Rhone is the weather that helped create its spectacular wines. The heavy wind that blows from the northeast, sometimes at a thundering speed of 60 miles an hour or more, is called the Mistral, from the Greek word Magistrail or ‘majestic.’
Cold, dry strong winds of the Mistral sweep along the lower Rhone River Valley toward the Mediterranean Sea, stressing the vines in the valley along the way. The results are grapes with highly concentrated flavors and an austere minerality derived from the rich gravel and clay soil. Rich in flavor, they create wines that are distinct in character.
One can literally taste the terroir in Cotes Du Rhone wines, which makes them excellent companions with food. Chefs of the region fine them to be nimble accompaniments with a dizzying array of cuisine.
A direct wine descendant of the Mistral is Domaine de Galuval, Le Coq Volant (the Weather Vane Rooster), AOC Côtes du Rhône Villages Rouge ($16).
Nestled in the valley between Cairanne and Rasteau in the hinterlands of Provence in Southern Rhone, the winery covers some of the best terroir around Mont Ventoux. The Mistral careens from its heights through some of the oldest vines in the region.
As little intervention as is humanly possible, combined with careful parcel selection and judicious aging is responsible for a wine that is true to the distinct character of each vintage.
The style of the wine is guided by the diversity of terroir and the rich fruit it produces. Appropriately, the symbol of the Rooster spinning on the weathervane, battered by the Mistral wind, is indicative of the conditions that ventilate the vines, urging them to maturity.
A blend of Grenache and Syrah, the mainstays of the region, Le Coque Volant Rouge is made from grapes grown in the Gayere Valley, which takes its name from the river that runs through it.
A sprightly example of the ‘Village’ designation (more on that later), the wine is allowed to macerate on the skins in order to enhance its rich, dark berry flavors. Short barrel aging gives the wine body and aroma. Lamb Chops brushed with Rosemary and garlic infused olive oil with a side of Asparagus drenched in butter or Hollandaise makes for a scrumptious meal. Save room for the lemon tart with fresh Laurel Leaf and mint ice cream.
LES CASSAGNES DE LA NERTHE, AOC Côtes du Rhône Villages, Rouge-$24
Cotes Du Rhone Villages wines are of the ‘Village’ designation that tends to be more complex than their AOC counterparts. Like the previous wine, it is far richer due to requirements for longer grape maturation and aging in the cellar. The resulting wines have more complex flavors and are higher in alcohol. These are some of the best wines from the Rhone Valley. The highest-level wines will proudly proclaim the name of their village on the label.
Chateau La Nerth is located in the heart of the Chateauneuf-du-Pape. The 225 acres of the chateau’s vineyards are located on slopes that encircle the Chateau. Certified Organic since 1998, the vines dig their roots deep into the rich sandy-clay soil, past layer of well-worn stones that originated in the French Alps.
A blend of 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre, the classic ‘GSM’ blend of the region, La Nerthe AOC Côtes du Rhône Villages, Rouge ($24) is an elegant wine designed to go with an exquisite meal. Roast Duck Mandarin Orange stuffing, Slow-cooked rabbit or Saddle of Lamb with mushrooms and multi-colored carrots and Baby Golden Potatoes cooked to the point that they can be mashed simply by the weight of your fork, are perfect dinner companions. If you can find a golden Muscat from the region, that will suffice for dessert.
Légende des Toques, AOC Côtes du Rhône, Rouge-$13
A wine made “with some great French Chefs to celebrate fine cuisine and convivial moments,” as it reads on the label, this blend of 55% Grenache, 25% Carignan and 20% Syrah is created with fine cuisine in mind. Yet, its price is affordable.
This wine is a perfect example of the winemaker acting as chef. Careful selection of terroirs, and grape varieties is designed to bring out the unique flavor expressions of the wine. Using grapes grown in the region’s fertile limestone soil covered with clavey rocks, the wine is fermented under cold temperatures in stainless steel tanks, undergoing maceration that seals in the fresh fruit aromas and flavors of the wine before aging 6 months in concrete tanks. This ancient means of aging, invented by the Romans, allows the wine to sustain its freshness and vitality. Aromas of blackberries and blueberries gush forth as the wines opens up to generous flavors of ripe fruit with a hint of baking spice. With the great French Chef Escoffier as a spiritual guide, this wine was made to go
perfectly with a variety of cuisines. Asian cuisines are a great match. For more, visit cotesdurhone.com/en.