What would a French wine be like without a legend to go along with it? Paul Jaboulet is not only one of France’s most highly regarded winemakers; it is also heralded as having some of the best wines at the best prices for 2023. Les Cassines 2020 from its Condrieu appellation vineyards is an exceptional value at $45.
Made from 100% Viognier grapes, it singlehandedly is the reason that a previously ignored grape is now all the rage at the hottest restaurants and wine bars.
Oh yes. I did promise you a story.
History reflects that Antoine Jaboulet became a Rhone Valley winemaking pioneer in 1834 when he bullt a small domaine in the rolling hills of the Hermitage, in France’s northern Rhone Valley.
The region gets its name from the following legend. A wounded knight returned from the Crusades. Seeking peace and refuge in the region’s secluded hills, he chose to live the rest of his days as a hermit. That’s it.
Legend aside, Antoine flourished in the Hermitage. He expanded his holdings by buying several nearby plots, most notably the Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert. He swiftly developed a reputation as a formidable producer of fine wines. He became known for creating fabulous wines in areas with names that are now legion in the world of wine.
In 2006, Maison Paul Jaboulet Aine was sold to the Frey family and is now run by Carolne Frey with winemaker Jacques Desvernois.
With over 200 acres under vine, they have created some of the most distinctive and sought after wines of the region, among them the celebrated 100% Syrah, Hermitage La Chapelle, which sells for around $200 a bottle.
Paul Jaboulet Aine Les Cassines is a textbook wine from the region. Aromas and flavors of honeyed citrus, tangerine, and spice are the bedrock to this finely crafted wine.
Made with 100% Viognier grapes sourced from their winegrowing partners in the Rhone Valley and sourced from portions of their Les Grands Amandiers estate vineyard this is a white wine with uncommon body and structure.
Biodynamic grapes from 50–100-year-old vines are fermented in large cement ‘eggs’ and then aged ‘on the lees’ (using the dead yeast to create richness and balance) before aging for 8 months in a combination of small French oak barrels, stainless steel tanks and cement eggs.
This is a beautifully textured and balanced wine that disproves the common wisdom that white wines are not for aging. This is a wine that can easily hold up for 3-4 years in the cellar and still taste as fresh as the day it was released. This is a shining example of why the wines of the Rhone Valley have become some of the most sought after in the Wide World of Wine.
I normally give a laundry list of food pairing suggestions in my wine reviews. I won’t take your time with this one. In fact, I highly recommend that if the wine is allowed ample time to breathe in a proper decanter, it should be enjoyed on its own. I recommend pouring it in your very finest Schott Zwiesel or Riedel glassware.
Also, I normally recommend sharing the wine with a friend or loved one. I won’t hold it against you if you decide to go it alone. You owe it to yourself. For more on the exceptional wines of Paul Jaboulet Aine, visit thetimesweekly.com for more Food and Wine of the Week. Drink Responsibly.