Wine of the Week-A visit to Chateau de Pena-The Wines of the Rousillon

Story and photos by Dwight Casimere

Perpignan, France-Nestled in the shadow of the Pyranees mountain range in the heart of the Agly Valley are the vineyards of the Chateau de Pena. Planted in soil that is embedded with stones, the 80 to 100 year old vines are gnarled and buffeted by Le Mistral, the cold sea breeze that helps the grapes to retain their acidity. Chateau de Pena is one of the cooperatives of wine families that work passionately to produce the quintessence of the Wines of the Roussillon.

The road to Chateau de Pena is circuitous and rocky. Traversing over steep mountain roads, one can see the various growing regions of the area from high above.

Our guide is Eric Aracil, Associate Manager of European Garnacha/Grenache Quality Wines. He is also co-director and export manager to the CIVR (Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins du Roussillon).

Aracil has spent his entire life in the Rousillon. Born into a wine-growing family in the heart of the Aspres, he immediately dove into a career in oenology. Upon graduating high school, he studied agriculture and biology. By age 21, he was a consulting oenologist at the famed Fourquet Laboratory, later becoming a wine educator at the Centre de Formation Agricole in Perpignan, France. In 2000, he was named Export Manager of the Conseil Interprofessionel des Vins du Roussillon, and as its Co-director in 2017. I consider it a supreme honor that I was fortunate enough to encounter his presence on this trip of European Garnacha/Grenache. His advice and counsel during the trip was indispensible.

The terroir of Chateau de Pena is a mixture of limestone and clay, which include a considerable amount of ‘black stone,’ which is also a composite of marl and black shale.

Vineyardes are spread over the foothills of the Corbieres,a mountain range in the ‘Pre-Pyraness’ that is the only true foothill of the Pyranees on their northern side.

The view from the Chateau de Pena tasting room is breathtaking. It looks directly over the mountain peak and it’s the stony terroir at its crest. The sight of the sun breaking over the distant valley was an added enhancement. Tasting the wines in this setting was like having Ambrosia in Paradise!

The village of Cases de Pene is located just ten miles from Perpignan, France, where our study group stayed. The word Pena in Catalan means ‘rock’, referring to the Medieval castle perched on the rocky mountain spur that reigns supreme over the valley of the River Agly. Vines are in close proximity to olive and almond trees, a setting so typical of the Mediterranean landscape and which also adds to the delicate complexity of the wines.

The wines made at Chateau de Pena make full use of the indigenous grapes that abound in their vineyards;

Grenache, Carignan, Shiraz/Syrah and Mourvedre. These are ancient grapes that go back to the earliest days of winemaking.

I spoke with the head winemaker, who identified herself only as Colleen, who described the making of their Chateau de Pena Muscat de Rivesaltes Ambre sweet wine ($10).

“This is very typical of the kind of wine we like in the South of France. We stop the fermentation right in the middle of the process and we add a great deal of alcohol, similar to the au Porto (port wine) process. We do a direct fermentation on the whole bunch of grapes before we press the wine out. Then it is aged in oak barrels for a time. This particular wine is aged for a minimum of 10 years. In the process, the wine gets really oxidized. What we do is we add one barrel on top of the other as it oxidizes, so it’s a real blend of aged wine that can go up to 15 years. The resulting taste is that of raisins, caramel, gingerbread and nuts with a bit of honey that creates a bit of sweetness that really comes through with complexity in the glass. It goes with anything sweet, but mostly with cheese. It’s a wine that I personally enjoy!”

The wines of Chateau de Pena have a remarkable freshness. They go wonderfully with grilled meats and pastas and pizza. They’re great with a casual lunch or a formal dinner and there’s a wine for every mood. Chateau de Pena Cotes du Roussillon Villages France, visit chateau-de-pena.com.com. @winesofgarnacha