By Dwight Casimere
Nineteen sixty-eight is remembered as one of the most turbulent years of the 20th century.
In America, the Viet Nam War set off in earnest the Viet Cong launched the Tet Offensive while back at home; Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. was assassinated.
In Italy, the year 1968 is remembered for the year that innovators at the historic estate of San Felice in the beautiful region of Tuscany created the first Super Tuscan ever made in Chianti Classico.
Made as a single varietal Sangiovese, at a time when production limits imposed by the Chianti Classico DOC prevented the full expression of the qualities and subtleties of the terroir, Vigorello was seen as a bold departure from tradition. At the time, there were rules imposed by the governing bodies of the wine region that prevented producers from exploring the characteristics of their territory. Rather than limiting themselves to using only the native Sangiovese grape, the winemakers at San Felice chose to create a blend that utilized both native and international grape varieties. In this way, they created a wine that fully expressed the mineral-rich soil and climate conditions unique to their vineyards.
Vigorello is a blend of 35% Pugitello, a grape grown in medium-textured marl that is rich in calcium with a breakdown of alberese and limestone under a mix of gravel and pebbles, so typical of the vineyards around Siena. Similarly grown is the Merlot used in the wine at a proportion of about 30%.
The use of Pugnitello is especially notable. It is an ancient native grape that was revived by San Felice, to create a wine that emphasizes its Tuscan character.
The balance of the wine is another 30% of Cabernet Sauvignon, and a small percentage of Petite Verdot, which is grown in sandy-silt soil dating back to the Pliocene epoch, that momentous period when the polar ice caps were formed and a shift in the Caribbean tectonic plate created a land bridge between North and South America. That land formation allowed animals to migrate freely, thus creating the order of species we now have today. I digress.
The wine inside the bottle is extraordinary. Fermented on the skins for 20-25 days, it is then aged for two years in French Oak barrels before being allowed to age another 8 months in the bottle.
Dense Ruby red with flecks of precious Garnet stones great the eye as the wine unfolds with a rich medley of ripe red berries, aromatic baking spices and hints of the underbrush one might encounter while walking through the fields of Tuscany. Warm sensations fill the mouth with its rich flavors enhanced by a touch of vanilla. This is a terrific wine to have with a Grilled Porterhouse of Bone-In Rib Eye steak or Butterflied Leg of Lamb brushed with Mediterranean herbs and garlic-infused Olive Oil. Strong, hard cheeses like a 24 to 36 month-aged King of Cheeses, Parmigiano Reggiano or an Asiago with some olives and a fine Genoa Salami from Columbus are a perfect way to start a meal. For more visit agricolsanfelice.com.
Drink responsibly.
