by Dwight Casimere
Austria is not one of the first countries that comes to mind when one thinks of wine making. To the contrary, the country, with its distinct and variegated growing regions is capable of producing some of Europe’s most complex whites, authoritative red wines and extraordinarily fine sweet wines. I had an opportunity to taste these exquisite wines at a recent event.
Uniquely situated smack dab in the middle of Europe, Austria is bounded by Germany just to the north and east, Switzerland, just to the south, as well as Slovenia with Slovakia, Hungary and Croatia, ringing the country to the East.
There is wine production all across Austria, but, due to more favorable climatic conditions, most of the wine-growing regions are located in the eastern part of the country.
In Austria, there are 42 grape varieties, 28 whites and 14 reds. Wine is divided by law into several categories of hierarchy: Qualitatswein, Pradikatswein, and Landwein.
Most wine aficionados are probably familiar with some of the more popular grape varieties that are used in production; Gruner Veltliner, being the new darling of wine hipsters, is perched at the top of the list. More traditional Riesling, Muskateller, Traminer, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir are among the wines that round out the list. Almost a third of the grapes under vine are Gruner, with other native varieties, such as Neuburger, Zierfandler and Router Veltliner swiftly gaining in popularity. Some indigenous red varieties, such as Blaufrankisch, Zweigelt and Blauer Wildbacher, are also gaining in popularity.
I tried a number of wines at a white wine-only event held recently at a midtown rooftop patio venue, the idea being that the view of the surrounding skyscrapers would lend itself toward duplicating the spectacular mountain views of Vienna.
Hirsch Loss Gruner Veltliner 2024 was the most recognizable label at the first table. At about $85 a bottle, this is an exceptional white wine that is well worth the money. Drinking it is a uniquely satisfying experience. Fresh and nimble, this wine from the Kamptal region is known for its flavors of crisp green apples, fragrant meadow herbs and a generous nose of white pepper. The wine has the nickname on the label of “Hirschvergnugen” which loosely translates as “deer pleasure,” meaning that this is an easy-drinking, casual wine. Farmed using biodynamic practices, this wine is a classic example of Austria’s signature grape.
Proidl Senftenberg Gruner Veltliner 2024-$40 is distinguished by its medium yellow green color with silver reflections that literally sparkle in the glass. Ripe tropical fruit flavors abound with bits of candied Clementine oranges, ripe apricots and a hefty aroma of blooming white flowers to round out the pleasurable drinking experience. With its bright acidity and long finish, this is a perfect wine of accompany an elegant light meal at sunset.
Hiedler Gruner Veltliner-$20 is a highly regarded Austrian white wine that is known for its Loss bottling. From the Kamptal region, the wine is characterized by its mineral-rich flavor, which comes from the ‘loess’ soil, hence the name. The wine offers bright fruit flavors of green apples and pears with subtle notes of fine herbs. The Hiedler family estate has a long history in the Langenlois region and is known for its sustainable practices. Only indigenous yeasts are used to create the wine, reflecting the unique character of their vineyards. For more on Austrian wines, visit austrianwine.com. Drink Responsibly.
