Alta Langa isn’t a name that exactly rolls off the tongue, but within a few short weeks of its introduction to the United States, it is quickly gaining in popularity. Established as a DOC in 2002 with inaugural bottles launched in 2006, it was elevated to its current DOCG designation in 2011, Italy’s highest denomination of quality.
Until now, 90 per cent of Alta Langa sparkling wine was consumed in Italy. With the launch of its U.S. campaign, that landscape is quickly changing.
“There hasn’t been anything like this in the history of Italian wine,” says Paolo Rossino, Director of the Consorzio Alta Langa.
“Today there are more than 70 wineries producing Alta Langa. They are working constantly in order to keep up with demand.”
Though not an historic name like Barolo, Alta Langa’s origins date back over 200 years. In fact, Piedmont boasts Italy’s first traditional method sparkling wines. It wasn’t until 1990 that a group of seven prominent producers – including Gancia – banded together to launch the “Spumante Project.” The 10-year trial represented a collective focus to develop traditional method sparkling wines based on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from dedicated sites. And the rest, as they say, is history.
In a recent annual calculation, 2 million bottles of Alta Langa were sold and 3.2 million produced. This is a drop in the bucket compared to Champagne’s 300-plus million, but Alta Langa is proving to be the “little engine that can.”
I had an opportunity to taste some of these delightful sparkling wines and meet their enthusiastic producers firsthand at the U.S. launch.
My first encounter was with Giovanna Bagnasco of Agricola Brandini.
From the La Morra area of Piedmont, the winery is best known for its stunning Barolos. Yet the sparkling wine I tasted was no less impressive.
Agricola Brandini is an organic estate run by two sisters with the full support of their father, Piero Bagnasco, the winery’s founder. You might have heard of his name before, because back in 2006, Piero and his business partner Oscar Farinetti started the wildly popular Italian food emporium Eataly, the site of Alta Langa’s recent U.S. marketing launch.
My next visit was with Alberto Cane of Marcalberto Azienda Agricola.
Tasting Marcalberto’s Metodoclassico Blancdeblancs was a virtual immersion into the glories of white wine. Translated literally as “white wine from white grapes,” the wine is made entirely from organic Chardonnay grapes. it is clear that Marcalberto has a serious commitment to traditional method sparkling wines.
Experience counts. Marcalberto’s founder, Piero Cane, started making his own sparkling wine after a long tenure with Gancia, one of the guiding lights of the Piedmont region. Today, with his sons Marco and Alberto, whom I met at the Eataly event, they have built the winery from modest beginnings. Attention is solidly on the traditional method, and the family has invested in a Coquard “marmonnier” press from Champagne to ensure quality and authenticity.
Their wine is subtly scented with anise and white blossoms. It builds with intensity on the palate to hints of citrus and toasted hazelnuts, which are native to the area.
Marcalberto is a standout for its exquisite finesse of bubbles, freshness and an intriguing salty tang on the finish. Bravo, Alberto!
Similarly impressive was the 2021 Extra Brut of Marziano Abbona.
Marziano Abbona winery is an ode to the hills of Dogliani. Located in Borgata San Luigi, it stands at the center of a natural amphitheater. On a clear day, one can see the Alpine mountain chain, with its majestic snow-capped peaks, looming behind it.
The winery stands on the foundations of an old farmhouse once called “Cascina Valle dell’Olmo” in honor of an imposing elm tree that once grew in the farmyard. Affected by disease, the elm was cut down, but its wood survives in the steps leading to the farmhouse’s ancient cellars.
David Giuliano, Portfolio Manager of Regal Wine was on hand to pour this golden bubbly.
With fragrances of white flowers and tangy flavors of well-ripened lemons, this was an excellent example of the perfect marriage of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes.
Made from grapes grown in the calcerous souls that are so typical of the Alta Langa region, the wine is characterized by its long aging on the lees, a hallmark of the Traditional Method.
Alta Langa’s sparkling wines are exciting and luxurious. Yet they are a fraction of the cost of comparable Champagnes. For more visit altalangadocg.com.
